The Haider Ackermann S/S 2016 runway show was enough to make me want to trade out everything in my closet for a new wardrobe of cropped, deconstructed jackets, high-waisted pants, gorgeous bias cut silk skirts and ethereal scarfs. A lovely lilac runway was a stunning backdrop to a rainbow of candy-colored pastels and acid citrus hues. The range of texture and form tickled the senses; lace was layered over silky skirts and structured vests over ruffled trim. In the end, the entire collection seemed extremely wearable, especially the ankle boots in boldly blocked color and print. It was fun and fearless with just the right ‘tude.
At Lemaire, it was a whole new world that I wanted to adopt. Long, structured proportions with all of the essentials- the blocked heel sandal, the not-too-thin/not-too-thick fringed scarf, high-waisted and wide legged trousers, embroidered muumuus and statement-worthy jewelry made in collaboration with Sophie Buhai. According to this article in the Times, the collaboration came about when Sophie cold-called the design duo. From there, they had a pen-pal sort of correspondence, which turned into a stunning collection of sterling silver with enamel detailing. All in all, Lemaire conveyed an easy, yet sophisticated elegance.
At the Maison Margiela showroom, I was greeted by a Margiela girl in her white lab coat uniform and led through the courtyard to the showroom flooded with light. The furniture was covered in white sheets, the chandeliers in gauze and all of the doors were printed in trompe l’oeil vinyl to look antiquated. And then there was the collection… my god, pictures really don’t do it justice! The exaggerated heels mixed with 60s swing coats gave a sort of retro-futuristic feel. There were kimono influences, wet-looking fabrics and jackets with striped paint (application determined by sitting on freshly painted benches). The handbags were actually the nicest surprise. There were softer than soft leathers carefully printed to look quilted or crackled without any seams, along with Bugatti bags with clever inner extensions, as well as painted-on embellishments comprised of knick knacks one might find from the flea market. We were very pleased to say the least! Galliano seems to be growing into his position at Maison Margiela, making it undoubtedly his own, all the while using a very Martin Margiela approach.
I loved the outrageously fun and colorful collection at Chrissie Morris. Chrissie's `showroom was fittingly located in the apartment of an artist, complete with an overflowing ashtray and kitschy objects galore. You’re going to want to wear her shoes to every party (in fact, they are THE party)… Carrie Bradshaw would most definitely approve!
From Marsell, we saw more everyday staples in new hues of green and yellow. We loved their Gammo collection of leather shoes with rubber sneaker soles. The one with elastic closure and red splatter above was my particular fave- can't wait to sport these with some slightly flared cropped jeans... They’re going to be just the thing for the rainy year ahead of us!
The Robert Clergerie collection was perfectly classic, including some throwback styles taken from the archives.
There were also foldable sun hats at Filuhats, salome sandals in silk tie fabrics from Carritz, striped slippers from Georgina Goodman, the wild platforms and heels made of lighters from Vetements (as mentioned in the last Chronicle) & the most lovely understated heels at Maria Cornejo.